Sheared Exhaust Studs getting you down?

[willinot]

Im due to sort my exhaust studs out this weekend and got one of the plates from Darren last year. Unfortunately Ive lost it (Sods law)

Would anyone have one I could borrow for this weekend or I can arrange to have a replacement one sent to them. As usual everything is last minute as It will need posted to get to me on time over in Belfast. I thought I had the orignal one to hand but only realised it was lost at the weekend.

Ive PM'd Darren also but just thought Id thow it out there in case Darren doesnt see it till later in the week.

Also, If anyone has a contact number for Darren that they dont mind passing on can you PM me.

Thanks Guys,

Paul.

I was horrified to see an article in a recent Delorean Magazine whereby the poor chap took his engine out due to sheared exhaust manifold studs!

No need,

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Introducing the patented “Dr Collins Delorean Stud Removal Method”

The biggest problem is how to drill out the stud without completely Fu*king it up.

All that is needed is my patented drilling guide plate. Specially made from 6mm steel with a 0.1mm tolerance to fit perfectly over the Delorean exhaust ports.

The plate features a special 3.5mm hole lined up to enable ACCURATE central drilling of sheared studs while stuck in the head. The guide also allows accurate hole angle (in line with the stud) and PREVENTS drill wander.
Drill straight and true EVERY TIME, even when upside down, in the dark, cold, shivering, with no blood left in your arms and generally hacked off.

The picture below shows the plate in situ. Simply use the “spare” stud holes in the head (using the NEW studs & nuts you’ve already bought to replace the sheared ones) or any remaining good studs to bolt on.




The second picture shows the tools required (note the lack of engine hoist)



And finally the removed studs (using an easi-out once hole is drilled)



The plate can simply be turned over for left or right hand stud removal, and a second plate is used for the larger spaced studs (bottom row) but not shown here.
Corners are specially cut to allow it to be positioned all ways to avoid dipstick tube, and casting lugs by alternator bracket. If the sheared stud wont come out with an easy-out, simply drill to 6mm using your nice accurate pre-drilled 3.5mm hole and then tap out.
“Simples”

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Oooops sorry, damn cut & paste…. wrong forum.

[Darren C]

Hi Paul,

Just seen your post (and PM).

Losing it's a real pain. I'll see if I can get another bit of 1/4" plate and make you another one. I've lent my spare one to that other club...

Maybe pushing it for this weekend, but I'll see what I can do.

Regards
D

[willinot]

Thanks Darren.

Replied to your pm too.

Cheers.

Paul.

[dmc4087]

Darren can you recommend a good quality 'easy-out'?

Any that I've ever used have just broken in the bolt and made the problem a million times worse. I wasnt sure of their brand but it put me off them.

[Dangermouse]

What a Tool !

I mean, what a great device. I second Thomas's request on a quality Easy-Out. Any threads I have read on stud removal in this car recommend against using them for fear they break off in the bolt head.

Recommend painting your tool fluorescent orange (or custom color of your choice) - so that it can be easily located and/or precvent it being tossed with other pieces of scrap steel.

[dmc4087]

I bought an easyout from a tool shop at lunch there, they assured me they were good quality - I might go back tomorrow to buy a second one and see how easy it is to break in a vice before risking it in the engine block.

[Chriss]

Save your self grief and getting a roller type stud extractor. And use vibration by tapping the body of the extractor whilst putting some force on the ratchet. Facom make one that's for 7mm studs, ok it cost as much as a set of 4 from Halfords but always worked for me!

[Admin-bloke]

Darren is it possible I can borrow the DarrenC-easy-tiger-stud-remover tool for when i come to change my exhaust gaskets?

[dmc4087]

Save your self grief and getting a roller type stud extractor. And use vibration by tapping the body of the extractor whilst putting some force on the ratchet. Facom make one that's for 7mm studs, ok it cost as much as a set of 4 from Halfords but always worked for me!

I have a set of extractors but a few of the studs are broken off inside the hole.

Before i have drilled a small hole and hammered a good torx bit in. The studs always came out, hopefully this is the same!

[Darren C]

Hi Guy's,

Sorry for not replying yesterday I went to a VOSA MOT testers and VOSA council members seminar last night.

The only advice I can offer on easi-outs is buy a good quality one if you can. dont pay £25 pay 3 x that for a 3 piece set.

The main reason they shear is the pilot hole is not in centre and cuts into the female thread of the hole and isn't fully in the old sheared stud. This locks it tight and then SNAP.

Also you need to ensure the pilot hole size matches the size recommended for the easi out you select.

And lastly the pilot hole is deep enough. With a little time and care you can feel when the drill has gone all the way through the sheared stud and into the void of the blind hole beneath.
(Long before aluminium swarf and coolant comes out the hole)
Drilling all the way through the stud can also heat the sheared stud right the way down it's length inside the head (friction heat of drilling) which can aid loosening too.

Before you drill the hole and after (prior to inserting the easi out) you can give it a sharp tap with a lump hammer and pin punch. This can loosen any rust thats binding it in the hole. Tricky in the limited space, but worth trying. DO NOT hammer the easi out they are hardened steel and can just shatter.

What do you want to borrow Nick?

Chris: Stud extractors only really work if you have 10mm of stud sticking out, any less and you'll chew it into a point.