#SUCCESS - GezTec - 25th September 2010

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Re: GezTec - 25th September 2010

Postby Darren C » Mon Oct 25, 2010 5:29 pm

Great news Gez, easier to do the tappets than valve timing! Now the mixture and idle have been set by Nick, I'd still check the ignition timing after you do the tappets just to be sure.

Good luck
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Re: GezTec - 25th September 2010

Postby jerzybondov » Mon Oct 25, 2010 5:37 pm

Thanks Darren, appreciate it must take a strong stomach for you to bring yourself to post on this thread :D
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Re: GezTec - 25th September 2010

Postby Admin-bloke » Mon Oct 25, 2010 5:44 pm

jerzybondov wrote:Just spoke to Kent Cams and the verdict was that it was all about the valve clearances, not about the timing.

I have a pair of 272 degree cams, to which the valve clearances should be 0.25mm (or 10thou). I can't remember what TT and I set the valve clearances to, but it was definitely the lower of the range suggested in the Haynes manual. I have a feeling it was in the teens on the inlet and 0.20mm on the exhaust, which would be way too low. Del at Kent Cams said that if I was running 8 thou rather than 10 thou that would change a 272 degree cam to 290 degrees, which would easily cause the symptoms I was describing.

The way they reprofiled the cams apparently means there really should be no need to change the valve timing.

This is good news. I may even be able to do the tappets myself. Time to get onto eBay and get myself a feeler gauge!

Thoughts?


That explains everything and I'm surprised you didn't get this info when you got the cams !

Anyway if the valve clearances were set to oem spec then the valves would be open for a longer duration and would explain the high hc at idle. The car may sound a bit more tappety afterwards but should run better.

As Darren said best to double check the ignition timing and get a garage to re-check the fuel mixture afterwards as it may result in slightly leaner fuelling.

Do the valve clearances with the engine cold. Inlets are where the adjustments are on the valves to the inside of the V.

If you are setting to 20 on the feeler gauge, if you can fit in a 20 but not a 25 then it is set within spec.

Be worth seeing how it runs afterwards as when I set my clearances to spec it made a huge difference.
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Re: GezTec - 25th September 2010

Postby jerzybondov » Mon Oct 25, 2010 7:14 pm

Cheers Nick!

Have ordered a feeler gauge, hopefully can do it on Saturday. Any other tips about doing the job? Aside from the rocker covers, any bits of engine I should/shouldn't need ro remove to get to them?
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Re: GezTec - 25th September 2010

Postby jamesrguk » Wed Oct 27, 2010 10:06 am

jerzybondov wrote:Cheers Nick!

Have ordered a feeler gauge, hopefully can do it on Saturday. Any other tips about doing the job? Aside from the rocker covers, any bits of engine I should/shouldn't need ro remove to get to them?


Just a quick tip (from previous cars as I haven't done the clearances on my D)

If you remove the spark plugs you should be able to turn the engine over by hand using the water pump belt, you can possibly do this with the plugs in but obviously you are then fighting the compression.

It's much easier than trying to turn the engine over to the right spot with the starter motor.

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Re: GezTec - 25th September 2010

Postby Admin-bloke » Wed Oct 27, 2010 10:29 am

jamesrguk wrote:
jerzybondov wrote:Cheers Nick!

Have ordered a feeler gauge, hopefully can do it on Saturday. Any other tips about doing the job? Aside from the rocker covers, any bits of engine I should/shouldn't need ro remove to get to them?


Just a quick tip (from previous cars as I haven't done the clearances on my D)

If you remove the spark plugs you should be able to turn the engine over by hand using the water pump belt, you can possibly do this with the plugs in but obviously you are then fighting the compression.

It's much easier than trying to turn the engine over to the right spot with the starter motor.

J


On a D with manual gearbox just as easy to put it into top gear and move the car forwards slowly by pushing it from behind and looking down at the pulley. (I pushed Ian and Shanes car at the ends of the bumper not the centre so it doesn't flex and they pushed either side).

On my auto I used an oil filter removal tool, the one with the strap that looks like it is from a seatbelt around the pulley with the spark plugs out as James suggested. I think a slight offset large ring spanner from underneath could be a better way.

Tip, if the notch on the pulley goes past the notch that indicates top dead centre, do NOT turn the pulley backwards or you will pull the chain back against the tensioners and the cam timing will be out. Instead continue to turn the engine so the pulley gets back to the not from a clockwise rotation (twice, as the crank needs to turn twice for cam to turn once if you are resetting back to the same point).

Valve timing is explained in the "Engine" section of the workshop manual.
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Re: GezTec - 25th September 2010

Postby KMC-DMC » Wed Oct 27, 2010 11:04 am

I've had to do this a couple of times this week with my car stuck in a small garage. I couldn't move the car forward and I couldn't remove spark plugs.

Ed suggested that i use starter motor to jump engine to near the correct location, then use the alternator pulley and its belt to clockwise rotate the final number of degrees. Its real hit and miss with the starter motor....
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Re: GezTec - 25th September 2010

Postby jerzybondov » Wed Oct 27, 2010 12:27 pm

Cheers guys... I'll probably go for the pushing technique (at first anyway, then plugs, then starter motor). Nick when you say top gear, you mean 5th? You reckon I can get enough push on the car by myself (on gravel) to turn the engine? Have got TT's Haynes manual for the Volvo 260 which gives some handy tips on which valves I can do with the pulley in which position which should save some unnecessary faffing about...
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Re: GezTec - 25th September 2010

Postby jerzybondov » Sat Oct 30, 2010 9:20 pm

So, today was Tappet-Tec at Gez Towers. My mate Jon came over half way through and helped speed up the process tappeting one bank whilst I did the others.

5th gear and pushing the car forward was the best way of turning the engine over, bit tricky on a slight uphill incline on gravel but doable.

Took a bit longer than expected, mainly because of rain interrupting the process (don't have any cover for the car here in London) and me misjudging the amount of rain and the ability of the louvre and engine cover to keep it out of the engine bay. Result: a slightly disturbing amount of water over the rockers. Out comes the kitchen towel. Whoops.

Worked round all the tappets, set them all up to 0.25mm (previously they were 0.15ish on inlet and 0.3ish on exhaust). Double-checked, double tightened them all afterwards, rebuilt all the bits and bobs and put it all back together.

I gave the car a 50/50 chance of starting, where half of the 50% chance of it not starting was the chance it wouldn't have started anyway after a week to itself (I didn't start it before doing the tappets to keep it as cold as poss). But it fired up on the second turn and settled down to a nice solid, even, 900rpm idle (at cold).

Back end smelt less fuelly than previously, although perhaps still a bit more than normal. Took her out and car pulls nicely from under 2000rpm, smoother than before and plenty of go building all the way to the redline. The warmer she got the better she ran too. Warm idle settling down to a solid 1000rpm ish.

The real test will be the gas analyser, but I'd say it's an improvement. How much of that is in my head I don't know but I would say it does seem to be spunking less fuel out the back than previously. Am pleased with the afternoon's efforts!
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Re: GezTec - 25th September 2010

Postby jerzybondov » Sun Oct 31, 2010 5:51 pm

Took the car out today to the only place nearby that would be open with a CO gauge - the dreaded Kwik-Fit. Shouldn't have bothered - I get there and find out that no-one is allowed to 'operate' the gas analyser without the MOT man in - and he's not in on Sunday. I have yet to have an experience with Kwik-Twat where the answer isn't 'computer says no'. They are basically brainless automatons following a strict idiot code with no scope for gumption or thinking for themselves. The kind of people who'd park a train that's on fire on a wooden bridge, for example.

Anyway, got home, parked the car up. Still smells pretty rich to me. I bet it's no bloody different on the HCs when I do finally get it tested!
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