vin 814

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Re: vin 814

Postby andyd » Tue Mar 15, 2016 9:12 pm

jamesrguk wrote:Shouldn't the new screw in otterstat be under the pipe? i.e. your pipe should be rotated 180degrees, I thought that was so in the event of an air lock or low coolant the sensor would still be submerged.

J


Yeah, it's a fair point James. Though I think the boss would be very close to the same temperature as any fluid in the pipe, and the otterstat is lower than the water pump, so the heads would have cooked by then maybe?

What's the general concensus? Should if ideally be rotated??

A
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Re: vin 814

Postby bandit » Tue Mar 15, 2016 9:16 pm

It does get mentioned now & again, but mine is same as yours & has been for about 9 yrs, wouldn't worry about it
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Re: vin 814

Postby andyd » Mon Apr 04, 2016 12:02 am

Hi, I have been fecking around with my rear lights today, prior to installing the dreverse kit.

814 cam to me with b&q wood screws holding on the rear lights. When initially recommissioned the car, I found some black allen bolts, which seemed to just about fit, but these were imperial, I think a BA size. Not likely to be oem I know.

They would have done, but after a few years, and sorting more important things, the rust was doing my head in!

So I bought black stainless m4 allen bolts. But these would not go in happily. Investigation this weekend also showed that the warp in my rear fascia meant that only about half of the holes lined up. Even where the bolts would go in, they still needed an m4 tap down them to get them to fit.

I had originally planned to put m4 rivnuts for the lights, and m5 for the bezel. The latter is currently held on with nylocks and penny washers, tightened by removing the rear lights. A bodge I know, but I had more problems needing my attention.

I got the left side acceptible with 4 bolts in re cut m4 threads, and got so hacked off I quit!

New rivnuts are probably not going to work, as it would appear that there are already quite large rivnuts there already. The fascia has been painted in the past, so I cannot really see the size, nor do I know if these are original.

Anyone else had this problem, of the holes not aligning, and what did you do? I think drilling out the existing will just make a mess!

And are they originally m4??

Am pretty sure the bezel is not m5, but mine are all stripped anyway :cry: piece of shit! Oh yeah, I have wlso spent long enough trying to get the elecric areal to align and work well. Fu c k it! Cds!

Piece of shit....!
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Re: vin 814

Postby arranj » Mon Apr 04, 2016 1:15 am

I have a bit of slight warping on mine which makes getting the holes aligned a bit tricky, brute force and levering action required.

The 12 x 106272 tail lamp screws are M4x30 when original. The 4 x 108938 License Plate Bezel screws are 10-24 - 1-1/4" (imperial) when original. I know this because I've recently commissioned a large batch of both of these (and others) in British made black stainless for club parts - due by early next month.
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Re: vin 814

Postby andyd » Mon Apr 04, 2016 7:20 am

Thanks arran

arranj wrote:I have a bit of slight warping on mine which makes getting the holes aligned a bit tricky, brute force and levering action required.

The 12 x 106272 tail lamp screws are M4x30 when original.


That explains why I needed to run a tap down them- they are just not held true.

And I sadly won't be able to take advantage of your laudable efforts for the fascia fasteners as I think my threads are all gubbed!

I think a rather extreme solution could be ally strips, with rivnuts, bonded on to the rear of the fascia top and bottom. This could then be bonded onto the rear of the fascia after the oem captive nuts had been drilled out/removed. I am not at that point yet!! Additional headaches may also arise from this with accelerated warping, though the ally strips may actually preclude this, as part er the f r ont eyebrows. ..

As I say, I will revisit this as and when! RH taillight next....

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Re: vin 814

Postby jamesrguk » Tue Apr 05, 2016 8:27 am

I've used cage nuts to replace some rivnuts with good success, drill out the duff riv-nut, file the hole square and insert the cage nut from behind the panel.

This can only be done where you have access to the rear of the panel for example the rear fascia and the cover panels under the bonnet.

They are available in stainless, just search online, no special tools required just a pair of decent pliers to squeeze them into the square hole.

Because they are stainless (or even mild steel) they are not so prone to the corrosion and seizing which effects riv-nuts, and because they are square they are much less likely spin if they do become a little stuck.

For those not familiar with cage nuts here's a picture...

image.jpeg
image.jpeg (23.1 KiB) Viewed 875 times


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Re: vin 814

Postby andyd » Tue Apr 05, 2016 8:40 am

Thanks James,

I have some, as I used them during a bike project previously. Handy things, I agree. They will also grip a non-round slightly knackered hole, which could work here...

But your post does make me think, I probably need to get in behind the fascia to get a look at the state of the captive fixings before attacking with the drill...

I just bought a long series drill and new M4 tap set to drill and tap the other (RH) side with the lamp in place. Not an idal fix, but will get it looking presentable for Belfast.

I will probably remove the fascia to do the exhaust, crank seal, belt, foglight mod and D-Reverse before winter, so will tackle it then. In for a penny...

Cheers

ANdy
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Re: vin 814

Postby andyd » Sun Apr 10, 2016 10:01 pm

Today I replaced the rear fascia fasteners with black stainless ones. Too boring for photos! Looks the same, but without rusty marks.

There are more fasteners now for the back lights, after I ran an m4 tap down existing holes, and drilled a couple of new ones. :thumbsup:

But the rubber ariel I tried in the rear pontoon doesn't work satisfactorily. :thumbsdown:

So the fight continues with the electic ariel. Its just such a pain trying to get it aligned with the hole in the grill, and all 3 mounting points tight, and getting the shaft vertical.

Although a confirmed technophobe, I may end up running digital radio via my phone. Will probably sound better.

Andy
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Re: vin 814

Postby jerzybondov » Tue Apr 12, 2016 10:52 am

Don't be afraid to use a drill to make a slightly bigger hole for yourself in the grill above the pontoon, that's how mine is and it looks fine (a semi-circle cut out of one of the grill fins). And you'll need tonnes of washers to get the aerial aligned down there, it's a pain and you need 3 hands but you get there eventually!
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Re: vin 814

Postby andyd » Tue Apr 12, 2016 12:08 pm

jerzybondov wrote:... it's a pain and you need 3 hands but you get there eventually!


Unless I just jumper the fuel pump with the line disconnected, and throw a match at the bastard!! :lol:

Sometimes it is the tiny little insignificance which really hacks you off! I also want the extended aerial to be vertical, viewed from both the rear and the side, otherwise it will just look shit!

Yes, I may well take a bit more out of the fin, but it has to be vertical when extended. In both directions!

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