De Lorean EuroTec

Good effort with the cage nuts.

They can be a better solution to riv-nuts where possible as they are very unlikely to spin, especially when set in a plate as you have done, and being steel far less likely to strip out or weld them-self to a stainless bolt.

Ok, now its a year down the line from sorting out behind the rear fascia and (and the fascia itself) prior to painting.

So I thought it would probably be a good time to do everything around the front fascia, before that gets a spray gun pointed at it at the same time.

Both corners had been crunched in the past, and hairline cracks existed but weren't serious enough to merit it getting painted. However I had also tipped both corners myself, one on MOT day after the MOT man had commented that the handbrake wasn't that hot, and I should be careful. Half an hour later it ever so slowly rolled down my driveway, resting on the garage doors!!





I had previously changed the outer headlamps for H4 Hella units, but these had gone cloudy



I'm not sure of the reason for this, but I think it's likely that when they get hot, something evaporates off of either the bulb, or the reflector of the headlamp unit. This then condenses on the cold glass, forming an opaque film.

So I wanted to try to sort this too. In addition, the inners were still sealed beam units, so I wanted to make them H4 as well. My idea was that once the fascia was on, and painted, I didn't want to have to fight it off again, potentially cracking/ marking it again. My fascia is extremely close to the headlights, meaning that I can't easily get to the adjustment and retaining screws, so I will likely have to make little adjustments or cut-outs so that the headlights can be taken out for bulb replacement without removing the whole fascia...

Most of the wiring I had already sorted out when I did the outer headlamps. But I wanted to paint the rusty brackets, and re-instate the side markers (rear done previously, just left the lamps out).

So I removed the fascia, snapping all the pre-requisite studs in the process.



Then I had to clean up the new (well, not now, but quite new!) H4 outers. I bent up a couple of toothbrushes to help. I think there have been a few instances of this cloudiness, and am not sure if other owners have sorted this themselves. Nonetheless, the product I have developed is unique and novel. I call these the "D-brush", and hold worldwide rights to IP, manufacture and marketing. US Delorean vendors take note!!



I used swarfega, and the D-brush, rinsed with tap water, and a final polish with DI water, as I am a bit over-analytical.

But the results are very pleasing indeed!



I also cut out the back of the headlamp buckets for the inners to take the new (second hand) H4 Hellas, with the big rubber boots. I have ordered some new hardware (screws, captive nuts and bolts, headlamp bucket springs etc) for putting it back together. With new springs I'll put the buckets back in and then start the process of getting it back together. I'll adjust the fascia as its just so tight round the headlamps. Not sure how yet, but it may well involve the dremel!!

(And of course, this is a great time to realise that the silicone hose joints on the DMC.eu rad are weeping a bit, so new T-clamps beasted right up will sort that... And they did. So lets run it up to temperature... Except this the thermostats not opening.... Oh well, onwards!)

a

Nice work Andy. Getting that fascia back on is going to be fun!! Keep us posted

Its ALL fun, Jez....

Yep, soon as I get the springs, I can put the buckets on, new headlamps, and then the fascia.

Then the on-off-on-off that I had to do at the back till its happy and I know I can get the headlamps out without fascia removal.

Actually- I am assuming its theoretically possible to remove the H4s without removing the whole fascia. Is this right???

Because taking the bonnet off to change a headlight bulb would just be too DeLorean for words...!

a

Top work Andy. Out of interest what is the benefit on changing the lights to H4's ?

Hey Dan,

I originally had 4x sealed beams. I changed the outer 2 when one filament failed, but left the two inner (hi beam) as sealed beams cos I am tight.

Before getting the fascia painted, I wanted everything sorted- wiring, lights, brackets etc.

Also if a sealed beam fails, I like the simplicity of changing a bulb, rather than changing the whole unit (and where the fuck would you get a sealed beam unit? Not the fucking Esso station, thats for sure!! Unlike a H4 bulb)

H4 bulb probably gives a better light as well?

A

Hi Andy.
Nice work!
I'm "feeling" every twist n turn from your narrative.

I'm 3/4 a way through a nice bottle of South African Sauvignon Blanc so the brain's a bit addled ...., I 've had those fascias on n off more times that a whores knickers and I can't think that there is an easy way to change the H4 bulb ... even with the mods you have carried out?
In theory my 3 year stint is about ready to have an MOT - I hope that I can persuade plod that it's necessary in lockdown?

Good point about being able to buy a replacement bulb at the services!! Mine is still running all 4 sealed beams, I find them to be nice and bright and have an unused spare set of 4, but they aren't exactly small enough to pop in the spare bulb kit to keep in the car

On reflection, yes the lights and lightbulb can be roved without taking off the fascia - learn some new swearwords though.
DMC talk have a thread which may help ..... but not much !!!
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?11166 ... -Headlight

Hmmm. Not a very practical car is it?! Bonnet removal, and a day's work to replace a headlamp bulb!

I know its not going to be a very common event, but a good point to replace all 4 bulbs if ever you have to go in there.

Am going to try to make my units as removable (and beams adjustable) as can be with the fascia on, with as little damage to the fascia as possible.

In fact no. Best not to drive it. Ever. POS!