VIN# 16951 - August 1982 - Manual - Black Interior

[Domi]

So, I have tried to invert the connector of the WUR and Cold Start Valve and everything is running fine.

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Video below
https://youtu.be/B7VSPZzk9V0
Around 900rpm. Don’t worry about the smoke; it comes from the exhaust which still has some WD40
On the other hand, when I plug the connector where they should be, same problem, the car starts but stall after a second.
Do you have any idea what is happening now?
Thank you very much for you kind help.

[Admin-bloke]

With your engine running I bet that as soon as you disconnect the grey plug from the blue cold start valve that the engine will stall.

The video is helpful as it sounds like the engine is running on the fuel from the blue cold start injector.

Remove number 3 injector (the easiest one to get to ie near the coolant bottle) and place it in a coke bottle.
With the fuel pump running, press the large circular disc on the metering flap down to see if fuel comes out of this injector. Only press the flap down for no more than 3 seconds.

If there is no fuel coming out of the injector then there is a problem with the fuel system and needs investigating further.

If there is fuel coming out of the injector, and assuming that you have connected the vac pipes the correct way around and that you have no air leaks, with the metering flap not pressed but the fuel pump running, get a long 3mm Allen key down the access hole to adjust the fueling.
Adjust until fuel comes out of the injectors and then adjust back until no fuel comes out of the injectors. Starting point is when fuel does come out of the injectors when the metering flap is pressed down a little.
Always make a note of how many degrees of the adjustment turns you have made so you can always go back to the same setting.

My guess based in the video would be 1 to 1.5 turns anti(counter) clock wise on the fueling.

Keep the grey plug on the blue cold start valve to start the engine but it should keep on running once you have removed the grey plug.

Good luck

[Domi]

Thanks again for all the good advice

[Domi]

Here is the initial position of the screw

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Turn it of ¼

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Then another turn

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And the result on the video, the idle was up to 1300rpm then 900rpm it worked a few second then stalls. I will turn back the screw when the engine temperature will be fine.

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I have to watch out the water pump for the pressure.
https://youtu.be/KyosM5ahjFQ

[Admin-bloke]

Put a picture of your 3 brass screws that are near the W pipe. I think they might be screwed out too far. I know this is not in the manual, but my preference is to screw the brass screws that are closed to the W pipe fully in (not tight) then unscrew them each by two full turns. Leave the brass screw with the slot in by itself. You'll use that to adjust idle air bypass around the throttle plate later on. ...

I still think it looks a bit too lean though and that's causing the oscillation. It is tricky to remote diagnose without looking at the engine so try turning it the amount I posted earlier.

Good luck

[Admin-bloke]

Also double check that the microswitch clicks when the throttle plate is shut

[Horsebox]

Sounded good on the last video.....but it still stalls? Do you still have the plug from the CPR plugged into the cold start valve? I guess that would flood it with petrol pretty quick now you've got your injectors opening up.

Your engine looks amazing!

[Domi]

Yes, almost there on last video.
It just stall when I have unscrew a little bit, over wise it was good. Just the idle a bit too high, but i have to wait until the engine is at a good temperature.
Everything is plugged at its own place now.
Thank you for the compliment, I spent the last 9 months working on the car.
And it's not over yet!
Next step will be to mount the Spax I had ordered here since a very long time and Eibach spring from Houston.
And of course a few more things to...
Pictures will follow as usual

[Domi]

Also double check that the microswitch clicks when the throttle plate is shut

All right, I'll check it out

[Horsebox]

Get a chopstick and poke the idle switch with the engine running. If you've had it all apart it is easy for these bits to become badly aligned.