Great news Gez, easier to do the tappets than valve timing! Now the mixture and idle have been set by Nick, I'd still check the ignition timing after you do the tappets just to be sure.
Good luck
jerzybondov wrote:Just spoke to Kent Cams and the verdict was that it was all about the valve clearances, not about the timing.
I have a pair of 272 degree cams, to which the valve clearances should be 0.25mm (or 10thou). I can't remember what TT and I set the valve clearances to, but it was definitely the lower of the range suggested in the Haynes manual. I have a feeling it was in the teens on the inlet and 0.20mm on the exhaust, which would be way too low. Del at Kent Cams said that if I was running 8 thou rather than 10 thou that would change a 272 degree cam to 290 degrees, which would easily cause the symptoms I was describing.
The way they reprofiled the cams apparently means there really should be no need to change the valve timing.
This is good news. I may even be able to do the tappets myself. Time to get onto eBay and get myself a feeler gauge!
Thoughts?
jerzybondov wrote:Cheers Nick!
Have ordered a feeler gauge, hopefully can do it on Saturday. Any other tips about doing the job? Aside from the rocker covers, any bits of engine I should/shouldn't need ro remove to get to them?
jamesrguk wrote:jerzybondov wrote:Cheers Nick!
Have ordered a feeler gauge, hopefully can do it on Saturday. Any other tips about doing the job? Aside from the rocker covers, any bits of engine I should/shouldn't need ro remove to get to them?
Just a quick tip (from previous cars as I haven't done the clearances on my D)
If you remove the spark plugs you should be able to turn the engine over by hand using the water pump belt, you can possibly do this with the plugs in but obviously you are then fighting the compression.
It's much easier than trying to turn the engine over to the right spot with the starter motor.
J