HaggisTek (or notes on fitting an exhaust)
Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2017 7:30 pm
Hello all,
Some observations on exhaust removal, and subsequent fitting of the new system.
The system fitted was bought a good while ago through the club, standard "UK club exhaust"
Before starting , best to have 24 new exhaust studs and brass nuts.
I also had 12 stainless bolts, washers and brass nuts to bolt the system together, plus a number of stainless M6 bolt, washers, penny washers, nyloks, and a few M7's as I remember.
Also gaskets for the head, and for the joints in the system.
I had previously applied PlusGas to the nuts a few nights beforehand- a week would be recommended to let it work best...
I arrived in a secret location near Southampton, and got the car on the lift about 6pm on Friday night. Best to disconnect the battery at this point- there are quite a lot of unshielded lives around the starter and alternator.
A pot of proprietary J12 penetrating fluid and a paintbrush was waiting for me. Some say this is an acetone-ATF mix, but I dont think anyone really knows whats in it...
When applying this to hot manifold nuts, be extremely careful- the flash point of the solvent is comparatively low, and potentially this could go up if the engine is too hot... You have been warned!
We decided to see if they would move. To our delight, all did. Probably due to the hot engine we thought?? The holes in the ally head expand away from the steel stud, and we thought all the ones we could get to came out. More on that later.
Also slop liberally onto the cat and Y pipe nuts.
We managed to get the 9 accessible studs moving in the warm head. Delighted, we retired for a pint, and returned early the next day.
When doing this, you will probably have to simply snap the nuts of the Y pipe and the cat. You may get lucky and get these off. I think one of our nuts came off, the rest were broken off with brute force and a long bar.
With the cat out the way, we got onto the final manifold studs hidden behind it. In this case, two of the studs didn't want to move. Due to the cold head we thought?? So it may be better to get the studs moving on a hot engine would be the conclusion?? We left two in, rather than fight them, and have to drill out broken stubs.
Soon we had the system off.
Some observations on exhaust removal, and subsequent fitting of the new system.
The system fitted was bought a good while ago through the club, standard "UK club exhaust"
Before starting , best to have 24 new exhaust studs and brass nuts.
I also had 12 stainless bolts, washers and brass nuts to bolt the system together, plus a number of stainless M6 bolt, washers, penny washers, nyloks, and a few M7's as I remember.
Also gaskets for the head, and for the joints in the system.
I had previously applied PlusGas to the nuts a few nights beforehand- a week would be recommended to let it work best...
I arrived in a secret location near Southampton, and got the car on the lift about 6pm on Friday night. Best to disconnect the battery at this point- there are quite a lot of unshielded lives around the starter and alternator.
A pot of proprietary J12 penetrating fluid and a paintbrush was waiting for me. Some say this is an acetone-ATF mix, but I dont think anyone really knows whats in it...
When applying this to hot manifold nuts, be extremely careful- the flash point of the solvent is comparatively low, and potentially this could go up if the engine is too hot... You have been warned!
We decided to see if they would move. To our delight, all did. Probably due to the hot engine we thought?? The holes in the ally head expand away from the steel stud, and we thought all the ones we could get to came out. More on that later.
Also slop liberally onto the cat and Y pipe nuts.
We managed to get the 9 accessible studs moving in the warm head. Delighted, we retired for a pint, and returned early the next day.
When doing this, you will probably have to simply snap the nuts of the Y pipe and the cat. You may get lucky and get these off. I think one of our nuts came off, the rest were broken off with brute force and a long bar.
With the cat out the way, we got onto the final manifold studs hidden behind it. In this case, two of the studs didn't want to move. Due to the cold head we thought?? So it may be better to get the studs moving on a hot engine would be the conclusion?? We left two in, rather than fight them, and have to drill out broken stubs.
Soon we had the system off.