De Lorean EuroTec

Sounds nice

Admin-bloke wrote:Nice video there

Has the misfiring been sorted out now and does it sound better??

Yep, misfire sorted out (ignition dizzy wired up wrong) and sounding much better, you'll hear it on Friday. Will try that brake vacuum check too before I make the trip!

Congratulations! Are you happy with the new setup?

jerzybondov wrote:

Admin-bloke wrote:Nice video there

Has the misfiring been sorted out now and does it sound better??

Yep, misfire sorted out (ignition dizzy wired up wrong) and sounding much better, you'll hear it on Friday. Will try that brake vacuum check too before I make the trip!

Nice one looking forward to hearing it. Does it drive nice so far?

You might have missed my post on Friday (haven't been out in it again since) - basically yes, it's running nice! Needs some fettling and the HC issue is still kicking about but in principle I'm glad I've done the swap - looks like it'll be worth the effort, which I wasn't sure about!

To save clicking back, here's Friday's post,

Finally got the chance to take the car out this morning and see how she's doing.

Started up first time - nice. Bit of an iffy idle at cold though, glugging and hunting between 700 and 1000rpm. Brakes up to the nonsense again (stiff pedal) which is relieved by a razz of the throttle - strange. Whilst cold the engine wasn't too happy, especially at low revs (sub 2500rpm) but as she warmed up she ran better and smoother. Gave her about 10 minutes to warm up before planting the right foot - and whoosh! Much quicker than before, really noticeable. A bit flat below 2500rpm (still not perfectly happy down there) but once past that point she really takes off. I'd say she feels 20-30bhp quicker than before (factory approved butt dyno). Also feels solid enough to get me to Caley next weekend - famous last words!!

Even if it ran the same as stock it would still have been worth the effort to get rid of those ruined engine mounts, rotten sandwich plate, seized up bolts, rusted brackets etc etc.

Dan 6457 wrote:Even if it ran the same as stock it would still have been worth the effort to get rid of those ruined engine mounts, rotten sandwich plate, seized up bolts, rusted brackets etc etc.

Yes, it's nice to have got rid of that lot, but it's not like they'd have failed (like the clutch), so that was definitely worth doing too. I've received the oil pressure sender and water temp sensor too so that will be a fiddle to fit at *a hotel*!

It might be worth giving her a coolant flush out sometime too as you mixed coolant colors. Probably not that important though, but some colors do react when mixed, usually blue and pink I think.

well my POS has decided to run on 5 new plugs tomorrow

Just spoke to Kent Cams and the verdict was that it was all about the valve clearances, not about the timing.

I have a pair of 272 degree cams, to which the valve clearances should be 0.25mm (or 10thou). I can't remember what TT and I set the valve clearances to, but it was definitely the lower of the range suggested in the Haynes manual. I have a feeling it was in the teens on the inlet and 0.20mm on the exhaust, which would be way too low. Del at Kent Cams said that if I was running 8 thou rather than 10 thou that would change a 272 degree cam to 290 degrees, which would easily cause the symptoms I was describing.

The way they reprofiled the cams apparently means there really should be no need to change the valve timing.

This is good news. I may even be able to do the tappets myself. Time to get onto eBay and get myself a feeler gauge!

Thoughts?