De Lorean EuroTec

Start the engine again to pressurize the cooling circuit.

Idle a bit high at first.

Once the engine is warm, I could go down to a better idle.

Finally, this time was faster to prime the water pump.
The fans start well, but later on the dashboard. (John probe)
And essential thing, my two horns work together now.
My son is with me for some testing

Let’s see how it will restart before making finer adjustments.

I may well be wrong but doesn't the cap on the coolant tank need to be on so that the system can pressurise and circulate properly?

Did you do something to get the idle speed down or did it just gradually drift down as the engine warmed up?

Your voltage and oil pressure gauges look decent, you must have cleaned the grounds!

Well, it seems to work without the cap.
Yes, turn the idle screw near the fuel pipes.
Yes, ground are cleaned and a few more were added.

Did you adjust the idle down using the deep 3mm Allen screw between the fuel distributor and the air flap? If so I guess you turned it anti-clockwise to reduce the idle?

That 3mm screw is not for idle speed adjustment. The idle speed is controlled by regulating the air that goes through the engine, not the fuel. Also, in one of your videos the 3mm fuel screw hole is blocked up with the bung, and in the other video it is not. I know it's a tiny hole but it will have a big effect on your mixture as it is a large unmetered air leak when open. Always adjust the mixture screw and then reinstall the bung.

Great work by the way, you're 98% there. You must be very pleased with yourself

Yes, you're right I turned the 3mm allen screw
I didn't know I had to put the other screw back on top when adjusting the allen screw, thanks for the tips.


Yes, I'm pleased with the work done. I wanted to be done since a long time ago.

Engine doesn’t run properly at this time, I still have to push the accelerator pedal to start. But then, it runs good.
I have to check it when I’ll find more free time.

Anyway, I received my aluminum lower arm, they’re really beautiful.
Few parts missing and then I’ll be ready to mount them to drive the car again.

Good choice Domi!

Were your old ones very bad, or were you just being careful? They are not cheap, but cheaper than a broken arm!!

Andy

Thanks!
Mine are 30 years old, not rusty but we never know if they're weak or not???
So, I'd rather have brand new ones.
Only thing is the lower ball joint doesn't have the required hole.
See pic below:

Good news is I bought another ones a long time ago trough the club:

Bad news is I don't know how to replace them

That's strange, maybe worth querying with DMCMW?

I also got a set of these arms earlier this year, and both balljoints had the hole for the split pin.

Suzy told me, a few minutes ago to drill the hole myself...