De Lorean EuroTec

They look great Gary

thanks guys, the plating looks a bit out of place on an old dirty engine but so be it,
also i've found a simple way of lowering the rear springs without cutting or buying new shocks,
just re groove where the the spring sits on the shock, this is the original


and re grooved at 1" and 1 1/2" lower

Next job is to sort out the front springs, the 4 wheel drive look is awful and makes the car look stupid, i think these cars need to look more normal



club springs vs original



while i was there i didn't like the look of the bottom spring bushes

so got some poly bushes and made some spacers to suit

That looks brilliant

So after thinking that i'd fixed the leaking gearbox seals i found they were leaking again, i thought i had installed the wrong seals so i got some from the club which are the same as my one's, but the flange has a bit of slop and the seal face is quite pitted so the only way to fix it is to press a speed sleeve on which did the job.




so now i can enjoy driving it for the summer

That's sitting nicely now. Haven't seen that rear spring mod before, nice one.

this what i started with

Great mod!


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after a good day out at the Brit & Euro car show here in Auckland NZ with my friends bttf car






i got home to find my reverse lights were on without being in reverse, so i thought it would be the gearbox switch which has been dicked with before and purchased a new one from the club, after installing it i still have the same result, out of the gearbox in hand the lights are on and when i push the switch in the lights turn off, i have tried another switch from an old Mazda and it works as it should, have i got two dud's or is this an issue with the D?, previous to this the lights worked as per normal, anybody had this problem or can anyone help please?

i've sorted the reverse switch issue, the switch is always pressed so the lights stay off and when reverse is engaged the switch is depressed turning the lights on (encase anybody was interested) the fix was to remove the sealing washer and it all works as it should.

next job is to bolt down the rear roof box as it is lifting and has pushed out and broken the plastic covering panel above the rear window



some muppet has put rivets in


and the front part has a little rust

i have taken the torsion bars out without the need for a pile of wood and extension bars, it's not as complicated and difficult as others have made it out to be, this is what i did:
you will need a helper so you have 2 hands free,
very simply unhook the strut and prop the door up as far as it will go with some wood, get the helper to take the remaining tension off the bar, undo the 2 m8 bolts and slide the retaining plate on to the tool your using, slowly release the remaining tension on the rod and your done,

the tools i used were a 1/2" power/breaker bar, 3/8" hex to 1/2" drive bit, 13mm spanner, 2m length of wood and the handle off the trolley jack to make it easy if your helper is short

don't be put off by some of the stories and comments on doing this job, it's a lot easier than you think