De Lorean EuroTec

DJK73 wrote:Hi Gruffalo

if you are going full Volvo I would advise a free flow exhaust system to get the max out the engine, the club one is very good, I have it on my Volvo set up and would recommend it

cheers

dan

+1

Dear friends, rest assured that I'm aware of the UK stainless exhaust.

My initial goal for this project was to get the car running as much "as-is" as possible.

Well, that didn't happen with the original engine, so now I'm committed to a full Volvo setup (and I'm looking forward to running the ONE, SINGLE vacuum line from the throttle body to the ignition distributor). I'm gonna keep it so that it can be maintained as per the Volvo manual, with as little home made improvisation/compromize as possible. But I digress...

So I wasn't gonna bling the car with all sorts og upgrades. The car is what it is, no racecar, and I have cars that are faster and corner better anyways.

But, I have a soft spot for exhaust systems. All my other cars have many different exhaust options (for the 928 I think I have 8 different configutations available, and almost as many for the X1/9). So even from the beginning I was planning to treat myself with a fancy exhaust system for the Delorean, once I got it registred and runing (i.e. most of the cost under control).

Now that I'm doing an engine out operation, one could argue that I should fit the headers while I'm in there, right? Right!?!?

gruffalo wrote:Now that I'm doing an engine out operation, one could argue that I should fit the headers while I'm in there, right? Right!?!?

At the very least I would say do the studs/nuts, that will make life a lot easier in the future should you replace the exhaust

I’m cleaning up as much as I can. Tedious work but it will pay off somehow I guess, hope.

Arran at Deloreango.com set me up with some great stuff for my Volvo B28E project.

Replace all the studs
And fit ones which aren’t used on the stock exhaust but is for the free flow
Don’t fit the headers while engine out, it makes more awkward to get it back in and also fit the exhaust
With everything loose it’s easier to line it all up then tighten up


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You mean the stainless studs? I thought stainless + aluminium = bad, and that stainless ismore prone to crack when exposed to heat (heat cycles).

We've sold over 2000+ stainless studs. With stainless it is important to use an anti-seize compound to prevent/limit galling. Heat... well the exhaust gets pretty hot too, and that is made from stainless
Just don't use stainless nuts, otherwise you will have problems if you ever want to get them off again - which is why we suggest brass nuts.

But yes, you are correct - in theory. Just in practice, I'm not aware of anyone with any issues, and non-stainless studs are a little bit harder to get.

What Alistair is getting at is that on an original system it uses 12 studs, but there are 24 holes. He is sensibly suggesting you fit 24 studs whilst you have your engine out - that way you always have spare studs should you need them. New exhausts can use all 24 holes.

Ok, thanks Great advice as always!

M

It’s O-U-T !!!!

That went super smooth!!! Did it all by myself in no time. Had to undo the clutch line, and remove the engine cover. Otherwise smooth sailing. The rest is gonna be great fun