De Lorean EuroTec

Cool - I don’t recall that field on mine, so I must have left it blank, lol.

The waiting will give me chance to fit the headliner, track down why my temp gauge isn’t working (despite cleaning all contacts and installing a new sender)
I think the gauge is stuck, as when I turn the ignition on, the dial is slightly above 100 and drops to 100......

Thanks again

TristanC wrote:I think the gauge is stuck, as when I turn the ignition on, the dial is slightly above 100 and drops to 100......

Remove the trip reset and see if you can get a paperclip bent to shape in and flick the needle up when the ignition is on. That maybe all it needs to sort it out.

MikeWard wrote:

TristanC wrote:I think the gauge is stuck, as when I turn the ignition on, the dial is slightly above 100 and drops to 100......

Remove the trip reset and see if you can get a paperclip bent to shape in and flick the needle up when the ignition is on. That maybe all it needs to sort it out.

Nice one Mike - I’ll give that a go.
How do I remove the trip reset? Does it unscrew? Or pull out?

Tris

TristanC wrote:How do I remove the trip reset? Does it unscrew? Or pull out?

Tris

You would need to use a small jewellers screwdriver to remove the screw holding the trip reset knob in place (circled in the picture below).


With the screw removed you can then remove the knob from the trip reset shaft, and then remove the outer sleeve (referred to as a spacer in the parts manual) which covers the trip reset shaft. All three parts are shown in the parts diagram pictured below. (Don't be tempted to try and remove the trip reset shaft itself or you will end up damaging/breaking it)
With those out of the way you can then attempt to get a paperclip and/or length of wire bent to shape in through the hole to try and flick the needle up, some contortion maybe required.



If you can't get into the right position then you may need to remove the binnacle to do it, which requires further contortion to remove the 6 nuts holding it in place under the dash.

Cool - thank you for the info.
I’ll tackle it this weekend...... I may have to remove the binnacle to test for continuity to the gauge anyway....

Such a pain as it’s the only gauge not working...

TristanC wrote:I think the gauge is stuck, as when I turn the ignition on, the dial is slightly above 100 and drops to 100......

What makes you think it's stuck? What you're describing sounds normal to me.....? Does it go up as the engine gets hotter? The gauge itself isn't that accurate, but it's in F not C, and starts at 100. If you're seeing it move when powered then that sounds correct....
Don't try to fix something that isn't broken, you will break something else!

arranj wrote:

TristanC wrote:I think the gauge is stuck, as when I turn the ignition on, the dial is slightly above 100 and drops to 100......

What makes you think it's stuck? What you're describing sounds normal to me.....? Does it go up as the engine gets hotter? The gauge itself isn't that accurate, but it's in F not C, and starts at 100. If you're seeing it move when powered then that sounds correct....
Don't try to fix something that isn't broken, you will break something else!

Because it doesn’t move off the 100 mark - even after the trip to the MOT. Fans were blowing too - although they are now stuck on at ignition. (New otterstat required)

When ignition is off it’s just above the 100. Turn ignition on, and all gauges drop to their start positions.

I’ve got a new temp sender in, tested continuity between sender and bulk head and that was ok.
Tried grounding the connector while ignition on, but no life in the gauge.....

If I tap the binnacle (when car is off), the gauge will move up to say 130 or so..... and there it stops until I turn ignition on and it drops to 100 again and stays there....

So perhaps not stuck..... but now I believe just not getting a signal.

Maybe tbr nuts on the back of the gauge are the issue.... I can see them and they look a little corroded... but no more than the others and the gauges are all good......


Now - I’ve looked at the wiring diagram and see the door ajar and seatbelt lights take power and ground on the same cables as the temp gauge.(green and black) and neither of them work .........
Perhaps it’s power and/or ground at fault.....

TristanC wrote:Fans were blowing too - although they are now stuck on at ignition. (New otterstat required)

What setting is your AC mode switch on? If the AC sort-of works and it's set to be on, then the fans would always be on. You only have to pull out one wire (any one) from the otterstat to test that though.

TristanC wrote:Now - I’ve looked at the wiring diagram and see the door ajar and seatbelt lights take power and ground on the same cables as the temp gauge.(green and black) and neither of them work .........
Perhaps it’s power and/or ground at fault.....

Earth is a possibility in some way, but those particular warning lights are controlled by the little door switches, and the connections there are frequently knocked off.

Cheers Arran,

The AC is off and I’ve tried all settings to see if that was the cause for the fans.
But I did then pull one of the otterstat connectors and the fans went off (car not running and AC off)

I did fiddle with the 2 door plungers but that doesn’t help the 2 lights - I’m not that bothered with them at the moment though.

Will see if I get continuity from temp sender to binnacle on Saturday..... pain in the bum it is lol

Ok so looking at the back of the binnacle for the temp gauge (picture is one I nicked off eBay)
Of the 4 studs around the temp gauge, which 3 are the power, ground and temp signal?

The top one looks to be missing a nut (same as mine when I look up from the footwell)
If the wiring diagram is to be taken literally, the stop stud is the signal?