De Lorean EuroTec

Great photos lads! Cheers!

Andy

This all looks too familiar! What have you filled up the deep holes in the valley with?

[quote="gruffalo"]How did the oil find its way into the intake?


Still investigating that, no obvious reason so far, bit of a conundrum

Dan 6511 wrote:This all looks too familiar! What have you filled up the deep holes in the valley with?

Hi Dan
The valley trenches was filled with a method called cold welding, its molten aluminium sprayed thru a welding gun so it grafts itself to the good metal that's left and fill up the holes (with the surface prepped first with an etch).. I'm happy enough with it but theres bits of it that are coming away a wee bit that didn't take so will be getting that cleaned up again

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=2826&hilit=Valley+of+death

I did a write up before about it when I got the cold welding done. it was back in 2011, so held up not too bad after 7 years or so

Cheers
Shane

More progress of the engine tare down

Block is not as good as we were hoping, the rot is pretty bad at cylinder 3 and cylinder 6.. more evidence as to why it's crucial to do a proper drain and a flush of the block when doing a coolant change every couple of years, instead of just the lower rad hose which only empties the pipe system.

The rot is right were the block drain plugs are. The water/coolant pools there, rots and spreads.
unfortunately on mine it has also spread to the oil galley behind the oil pump feed.. Not good.

This, we "think" is where the oil was getting into the inlet manifold system, it was leaking into the combustion chamber and some leftover oil that wasn't burned off was escaping "up" when the inlet valve was opening and spreading into the manifold..
The engine as a result was starting to burn a little oil to.. So overall better than other blocks that we've seen but a real let down that the rot comprised the oil galleys as well..

A Couple of the con rod bearings where wearing out to, thankfully the con rods themselves are fine.. All the bottom end bearing and shells will be replaced as a matter of course anyways..

Next step is to thoroughly clean down the block and get rid of the sludge and silt and then blast it to see what's left.. This will 100% verify if the block is toast or not

Fun times!

Shane

Ahh Mannn, that's a pain in the A*** ! Fingers crossed for you mate, you gona try and source a new one just incase ?

Hi Mec
Yes a real bummer

I am following up on a few leads for spare blocks. but the issue is you can buy a whole engine but untill you do at least a partial strip down you don't know how good the block is or the heads for that matter!.. It's kind of a blind punt lol!

All the research and history on peugeot, volvo s I've come accross on the prv s has shown they are poorly maintained when it comes to coolant changes over the years which really cuts the life of these fragile blocks In Half quite literally...
Yes the blocks are made of shit cast aluminium but bad Mainteance double compounds the error..
I have read that even volvo dealers didn't bother to drain the blocks when they were doing services on cars back in the day to save time so they could get the next car in. would you believe!

Shane

Yea that sounds about right for a main dealer lol
Dan stacey has had similar problems with one of his blocks, he offered as a coffee table project on here, i think his one only had rot in one place that could possibly be repaired, might be worth asking him about it ??