De Lorean EuroTec

Well, now i know why im not getting anything other than VENT from my car. There are also only 2 rubber hoses connected too.

My car hates LED indicator/side lights. Rears are still fine. So back to incandescent it is then...

Youre looking at the last mattaligner thats now finally attached and a rebuilt mode switch. I say its the last as I bought the last one from Dgo and they arent being made anymore (as far as im aware).

When i went to correct the POs bodge of connecting 3 vac hoses together using a T pipe, I got the infamous hissing sound from the switch. A new diaphragm later and im hoping ive cured the hiss. Previously I could only get VENT so now im hoping I can get some heat and stop the windows fogging up too.

I now have use of the control mode. Yay! Still not getting any heat though which means I most likely need to change the water valve. Well heres hoping.

Console is all back in now minus the radio which ive now decided i will be going for the retro sound. For the time being, pickle rick will fill the void.


Mattaligner is now doing its job and looks great. The defrost switch area needs a little filing to go in properly or i may just do away with it completely as its not really needed which then frees up a space for another option.

Its happened. Ive had to take the ride of shame. Filled up at tesco and the car wouldnt fire up. Will be looking at the fuel pump and inertia switch tomorrow

So ive got it narrowed down to a dying inertia switch or a bad ground for said switch. Whats best? Finding the original ground point and cleaning it up, or splice into the ground wire and route that to a better point? And if that doesnt cure it then a new switch is needed.

Picture just for shits and gigs...

Thats a bummer has happened to us all

The inertia switch on early cars was subject to a recall iirc. So it possibly could be faulty.

The earth for it runs into the main loom and joins up with all the other earths for the binnacle and dash lights. They all eventually lead back to the interior main earth point behind the bulkhead carpet above and behind the fuse box relay area.
It doesn't have a dedicated earth point for the switch alone.

You could test it by removing the black/purple and black wire connectors out of the inertia switch and temporarily join them together with a jumper connector. Crank it over and listen If the pump runs, then you know its the switch at fault.

Have you tried the connection at the washer bottle multiplug btw.? That stopped my fuel pump from working there once before.
took it out found a badly corroded wire was the issue.

Hopefully a quick fix for you
Shane

cis6409 wrote:The inertia switch on early cars was subject to a recall iirc. So it possibly could be faulty.

The recall was done because there were reports of switches triggering "on their own". What the recall did was to both replace the switch, and to move it away from the "kick zone". All that was probably happening was that some owners were kicking the switch. The replacement switch is identical in literally every way except had a dollop of white paint on it. I'm 95% sure the switches provided in the recall were just the same switch and they were being replaced just to make it look like it was more than just moving the switch. I've studied both types in detail and checked serial numbers etc., hence my confidence.

Those switches were used on hundreds of other cars before and after the DeLorean, without issue - mainly on Jaguars.

I have loads of second-hand ones here, that I bought from a Jaguar surplus, if you need one - cheap.

Fascinating, great to know arran.