VIN 3695 - Dutch Rob's Car

[RobvdVeer]

- I am EXTREMELY happy with the interior LED upgrade. Last fall I replaced the bulbs, but these led's are so much brighter that it is well worth the money (€18 for the LED kit: engine, doors, interior, luggage).

That sounds like a good deal rob .. Where were those from bud ?

www.delorean.eu, of course.

[RobvdVeer]

Good job Rob ... I can see you doing a few more at Eurotec now

I am not going to sit outside with my clumps and oil coat stitching net's in the pooring rain. Now that would be too stigmatic for a Dutch dude.

[KMC-DMC]

Hi Rob,
I done the interior LED upgrade last weekend too. I also bought the console and instrument cluster LED kit from Welmoed. I went for the "cool" lights and it makes a difference
Kevin

[RobvdVeer]

Hi Rob,
I done the interior LED upgrade last weekend too. I also bought the console and instrument cluster LED kit from Welmoed. I went for the "cool" lights and it makes a difference
Kevin

Nice. How different is it from the DMCEU kit? Because of the speedhut HVAC section I removed the bulbs there. On the binnacle i kept them because they need to light up the needles.

[RobvdVeer]

Another update!

Yesterday I found that the seat belt buckle wiring was faulty, but I lacked some parts to finish it up. Instead, I replaced the RH outer door seal with the new one from DMC-Eu I had still lying around.

Today I went to the DIY store to get the parts and I just finished cleaning up.

I had to replace the wiring inside the buckle because it had a bad connection. After some soldering I put everything back together, reconnected the plug, and connected te Yellow/Purple and Black/Purple wires from the (no longer available) buzzer module. Now the seal belt warning lights up when the contact is on and the seat belt is not fastened. It was a lot of tinkering for such a small feature but I learned new stuff, and they say that is a good thing.

[RobvdVeer]

Today I realigned the roof T-section. When opening the right hand door, it would hit the T-section and annoyed me. I had to remove the outer seal on top to reach 6 screws. After that I moved it a bit to the side and now both doors close and open pretty smooth. Pretty basic stuff really.

Next to that I made a bracket out of an aluminium strip to protect the battery cutoff switch to be knocked in the off position by accident. My switch sits right behind the RH seat to any sudden movement to the back may have touched it. Bracket fixed. Potential problem solved.

Oh and I did some cleaning too.

[RobvdVeer]

I'm so glad i didn't seal the weather striping yet:

http://www.dmctalk.com/showthread.php?p ... post224574

The Tee panel hooks under the front to keep it from moving up, the foam keeps it from drooping down. Without the foam the panel can drop and when you open the doors they will rub on the Tee panel. You don't need to glue the foam to the Tee panel. As long as the Tee panel is off you should remove the plate duct-tapped on and inspect inside the roof. On some cars it fills up with water and rots inside and can corrode the electrical connectors for the doors. Be VERY careful with all of the sharp edges of S/S that are exposed.

I will take it off one more time to see the foam is gone and do a visual check on rust/wire damage while i'm at it.

Also, i went to an auto parts show today to pick up some vacuum hose. 3mtrs for 16euro aint very bad. The hose from the vacuum to the CPR needs replacing.

[RobvdVeer]

Removed the T section the other day. It was indeed sitting a bit low. And all the foamy bits inside were dry and crumbled. I cleared it out and I stuck on some heavy anti draft-tape (used for sealing kitchen doors for example) and not it sits flush with the doors. The new alignment instantly fixed the appearance of the car.

As a benefit it won't rattle anymore when driving.

[bozzzydmc]

Good work that man !

[RobvdVeer]

Good work that man !

I love getting compliments!